COMEDOGENICITY (Aka: “Pore-Clogging”)

“Comedo, or comedone” are two clinical names for what we call a “blackhead” which is a form of acne. The word ‘comedo’ is derived from the Latin which means ‘glutton.’ Interestingly enough, it hasn’t been explained exactly why this word came to mean ‘blackhead,’ but if one thinks about it, it makes sense. ‘Blackheads’ are a hardened plug of sebum which is one of the fats the body produces to lubricate the hair follicle and is believed to help form the skin’s protective ‘acid mantle” or protective barrier, of the skin. This oil is secreted by the sebaceous glands (oil glands) just underneath the epidermis, or outer layer, of the skin. I like to think that the root meaning of ‘glutton’ comes into play when two things happen within that hair follicle: First, when the sebum secreted fills the follicle up, it can form a fatty, gummy substance which collects dead skin cells and other debris. This then starts to oxidize, turning it dark in color. This plug or blackhead is usually barrel-shaped and over time it can enlarge, harden and get so deep within the stretching follicle that it is almost impossible to remove by a novice without obvious injury to the skin and can potentially leave a permanent large ‘pore’ opening or acne scar.

Comedones can be open or closed. Open comedones are what we see as ‘blackheads’ with the top part of that plug exposed to the air and can be seen at the opening of the follicle or ‘pore.’ Closed comedones are called ‘milia;’ these are small white bumps, sometime like grains of sand, under the skin. These should not be confused with a pustule caused by acne.

The second play on this word ‘glutton’ is that there are also bacteria living within the hair follicle; and under the right circumstances, some of these little guys are the ones which cause the skin to produce inflammatory acne lesions. One group that produces acne is called Propionibacterium acnes or p. acnes; when the air is cut off from the inside of the follicle, these critters feast on the growing plug of sebum and they reproduce themselves. The waste by-product of these growing bacteria colonies contains fatty acids which irritate the skin, and in turn, this irritation signals the body to go to battle against and to expel the foreign matter and produce a “pustule.”

A pustule is a white ‘blister’ surrounded by a thin, red ring of inflammation. The pus on this classic ZIT is a combination of the dead p.acnes bacteria, fallen soldiers of our immune system’s mast cells, and the matter which the little follicle had once contained, including the hardened sebum plug. At this stage, the body has done its job of fighting off the small and local bacterial infection by bringing it to the surface and encapsulating it. Often it begins to itch at this point, and the natural inclination is to scratch, causing it to open up and drain. This must be properly cleansed with an antibacterial cleanser for acne and allowed to heal without scratching or picking, which can cause scarring. If it doesn’t heal within 4-5 days, produces more pus and/or minor inflammation in the area, there will most likely be some of that original comedone within the lesion that must be removed for proper healing to take place.

Comedogenicity is the “beginning of comedones.” Why do some people get blackheads and others don’t? Why is it that sometimes when a different product is used that it causes breakouts? Several things need to be considered with comedogenicity. Obviously the first place to start is the gene pool. Families can inherit a trait for acne. But what about those who never had one pimple when they were teenagers and then break out when they or older? Or what about the time there was a switch in makeup or other skin care product that caused anguish and weeks and weeks of pimple lesions? Around us are ads and labels which claim the phrase: “Non-comedogenic.” What does this all mean?

There are combinations of factors involved in comedogenicity. Comedogenic is the clinical term for anything that can cause the pores to clog. In order for this to happen, there needs to be a combination of several things:

• A person’s skin may be oily (but not necessarily so), lacking in proper exfoliation, has overgrowth of bacteria

• Skin has a tendency to clog or has inherited the trait for acne

• Ingredients in products which have properties that can cause the follicle to fill and clog, and

• The amount of time the comedogenic ingredient(s) remain on the skin where the acne occurs affects the degree of comedogenicity

Red D&C Dyes

Red D&C Dyes additional culprits for comedogenicity. Guess where these are most likely to be found? Blushers and Bronzers! How about those acne scars or little bumps under your skin where you’ve applied these for years?

Not ALL finished products necessarily cause comedones, but this is the first place anybody affected by this can check and correct by the process of elimination.

Here are some things you can do to benefit and improve your skin and its care:

• Examine the labels of ingredients in anything that goes onto your facial skin.

• Do a little online research and compare theories and ingredient charts concerning comedogenicity.

• Avoid fabric softeners on your pillowcases and washcloths/towels.

GlamModelz Esthetician, Linda Cowin and her daughters at the Touch of Excellence Salon

• Remove the offenders from your skin care regime but if this cannot be completely avoided, ensure that ALL makeup is completely cleansed off of the face before bedtime and follow with an acne treatment if necessary, recommended by your Skin Care Professional.

• Visit your Esthetician for advice, professional extractions of comedones and milia, acne treatments and new ingredient technology in professional products they offer. Proper and professional home care and professional treatments work in tandem to produce optimal results for your skin’s health.

• Check in with your skin care professional if you have any questions while the situation resolves and the skin heals, or if there are any new situations that may arise. Professional care can even potentially reduce the occurrence and appearance of scars produced by acne.

• Your Esthetician is your first line of defense; they will be able to refer you to a physician should treatment be needed for certain conditions which may fall beyond the skin care professional’s scope of practice in your state.

Not all Estheticians are equal in their skill or knowledge. Look in your area for your NCEA Certified Skin Care Professional. You will find more details and a list by state at www.ncea.tv